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My dryer showed Error code F01. I called professional who said I needed to replace the control board, but the repair estimate was $461! Can I replace the control board myself? If so, how? The part is # W10174745 for Kenmore H3 electric dryer. Apparently it is a Whirlpool part made for a Kenmore dryer. Thanks, Pat

The F01 indicates a failed electronic machine control board. This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines. You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes. If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced. You can order a new control board from the Sears PartsDirect website. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir… Here’s how to do it: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgf… Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components. When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time. Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer. Reassemble and test the washer.

As with many appliance boards, relays that switch 120 VAC tend to create surge currents through the solder connections that attach the relays to the PC board. My dryer displayed a F01 also. After taking the control board out and examining the solder side of the board, it was immediately apparent that the solder joint for one of the relays had worn away and was causing arcing on the underside. I simply soldered a piece of 16 AWG wire in its place and the F01 issue is now resolved. Don’t pay hundreds if dollars for a simple repair like this.

Great information folks. Am sure many others as well, but I appreciate the time taken to share. Sadly, I have no “obvious” broken soder points. I have removed the Control board, and everything looks in tact. But if you zoom in on the “notch” (right centre) there appears to be some scarred section of the board… Either way, i suspect my only next choice is to by a replacement and install it. (just to note, I saw the F01 error, tried unplugging, nothing). Board image Now that I think about it, is there anyway of confirming the F01 indicates this control board, or could it also be an issue with the control board on the front/UI part of the Dryer? Final update, wasn’t the Control board, was the Thermal cut-off switch. Located underneath the base, up behind the lint-trap. A bit of a pain to get at, and get off, but a quick meter check confirmed. I then (temporarily for testing) put both wires together, and voila: the Dryer came to life and the drum began spinning… :) I know there wasn’t any back-and-forth but this site was started me thinking that this was something I could resolve myself. Thanks, Trevor. PART Number: G4AP0500 TF091C ($3.99) Dryer: Kenmore HE2 Electric Dryer

I had the F01 error but the circuit board was fine. Eventually after taking the back and sides off the dryer I noticed the light came on every time the dryer stopped. Then I figured out that the door switch was the problem as pushing the door in made the light go out. So in the end all I did was add some sticky velcro to the switch to pad it out enough to make contact with door to keep the switch closed when the door was closed. Hope this helps someone.

read blogs on F1 code. took top off control panel and made sure electric plug connections were tight. pulled them off and reset them as suggested in a blog I read. worked fine. this has happened a few times over the past couple of years. resetting the connectors does the job. particularly the two on the left side. those are the ones that cause the code. the cause is opening and closing and possibly slamming the dryer door effects them after a while. sometimes I get the code and it goes away right away usually after slamming the door closed. I’m sure there are other causes for the code without a simple fix like this but this is one cause for the code

Put a hose clamp on the hose coming from the board. This solved my F1 problem.