Chosen Solution

Hi Everyone, I am trying to get some help with a KitchenAid Dishwasher, Model KUDE60FVSS2, that is having problems with heating the water and drying the dishes. I read other posts and already have done the following:

  1. Replaced Heating Element
  2. Replaced High Limit Thermostat
  3. Rebooted the Control Board
  4. Visually Inspected Control Board (No burns, loose wires) What continues to happen is:
  5. During Normal Wash cycle/Hi-Temp Scrub/Sani-Rinse: The water stays cool (cannot tell if the heating element heats up or not)
  6. Heat Dry: The heating element does heat up some - but it does not get hot like it used to. So, any idea why the water not heat up during any of the cycles? My initial thought was the Hi Limit Thermostat, but I checked it with a Multi-Meter and it has continuity (around 17 ohms). And then I replaced it just to be sure. Is there an actual thermostat on the dishwasher? (I could not find one in the parts list) Is there anything else to try before looking at the Control Board?

Hi @mcvu , With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element? Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one? http://www.partselect.com/Models/KUDE60F… Update (04/12/2017) Hi Michael, By “Hi Limit Thermostat” do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp ’exceeds’ the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won’t start as it controls power to the control board. Just wondering whether it might be the actual Dishwasher thermostat that is causing the problem or possibly even the Turbidity Sensor. (part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-nu…,) According to the user guide,(and I’m assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they’re talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the “soil” level only and not both, but who knows): “The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the incoming water is less than the recommended temperature or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, heat and water as needed.” (The italics are my addition to the quote). I’m wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle.. Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher’s cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time (and power used for the heater) is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp, usually set on mine for a 45-60 deg. C wash. just a thought.

I had the same issue (water not heating and machine not drying) but was able to fix it today, thanks to this thread, with little effort and no parts at all. Back in June 2019 I had to replace the circulation pump on my Kitchenaid KDFE204ESS2. The dishes were not coming clean and after a little troubleshooting I determined a bad circulation pump was the issue. I ordered and changed the pump and thought everything was fine because I could now hear the water spraying vigorously inside the machine when it was running. What I didn’t know was the machine was now leaving a film of undissolved detergent on some of the dishes and the inside surfaces of the machine. My niece (she does the dishes) never told me about the film and would rinse the dishes in the sink after the cycle and dry them by hand. Last month when my niece moved into her own apartment and my wife and I were now on “dishes duty” is when we discovered the issue with the detergent film. After some troubleshooting I determined I was having the same issue as everyone in this thread. Water was not getting hot and the dry cycle was not working. I figured it was the heating element but after some research realized it could also be the high temp limit thermostat. This morning I was getting ready to test for continuity of the high limit thermostat and if necessary the heating element as well. I was hoping it would be the thermostat since it’s an easier job to test and replace. Before I started I was surfing for more info and came across this thread. That’s when I realized that earlier last year when I replaced the circulation pump, I had unplugged the wires to the high temp limit thermostat so they would not be in the way. Then I thought to myself that unplugging the sensor might have the same effect as replacing it and maybe I just need to do a diagnostic/reset cycle on the machine. Here’s what I did: Power cycle - Shut off circuit breaker for 5 minutes then turned it back on.Diagnostic/reset cycle - For my model this involved pressing any three buttons in succession three times. The machine runs for a while switching between cycles and testing all components.Drain cycle - For my model this involved pressing and holding in the “cancel” button until the machine started the drain cycle. After the above I loaded up the washer, started it, and hoped for the best. During the wash cycle I opened the door several times to check if the water was hot and was immediately met with a face full of steam. Then during the dry cycle I again opened the door to see if it was getting hot inside the machine… and it was. When the wash cycle was complete I immediately opened the machine and there was no detergent film on any of the dishes or inside surfaces of the machine, everything was clean, dry and still very hot to the touch…. Problem solved!!!!

Hi @Laura Demma Here’s the tech sheet for your model. Here’s what it says about entering the Service Diagnostics: To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following while in standby: ■Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. ■The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed. ■To rapid advance 1 interval at a time, press the Start/Resume key. Rapid advance may skip sensor checks as some checks require 2 complete intervals. Hopefully they will help you try find out what’s wrong.

Always remember to reset the computer after replacing the part or it will not work.

I replaced the pump on my Kitchenaid dishwasher, but then the heater did not work. The resistance of the heater and the thermostat checked out fine. I thought I reset the control panel by pressing 3 buttons 3 times in a row (which gave the code 7-1, indicating the heating element). The resistance of the heater and the thermostat checked out fine. The problem, I think, was that I canceled the diagnostic function after it gave the code, so it seems the panel was not fully reset. I had to let the washer go through the full diagnostic process and run through the different functions, (and not interrupt it). That fixed the heater. -sb

Hi @kgarnes You need to check what has happened to the control boards. Having so many failures in such a short time is too coincidental Not drying the dishes and not properly cleaning could be several things, e.g. not drying could be faulty heater element, not cleaning could be the circulation pump not pushing enough water through the spray arms to clean properly. Both which may affect the control board as the power for these components comes through the control board. If you have the old control board you may be able to check what is damaged and then hopefully work out what it controls in the dishwasher. Without a schematic of the control board it will be very difficult but maybe it can be worked out by looking at where it is damaged and then tracing the tracks from the damaged section to the connectors on the board and see what wires are connected to it and then where they then go to in the dishwasher and testing whatever they’re connected to. At least this is what I’d do. If you decide to try this yourself, also start a new question on ifixit giving details e.g. make and model and a brief history of the problem etc as you have already done ;-), (include the control board “board number” - printed on board itself - if it has one, maybe there is a schematic online) and post some close up images of the control board as well showing the damage if there is any in evidence or even not. Perhaps something will be spotted that you may not have noticed. Here’s how to do this Adding images to a new question It may take a while to find out what is happening as I said it will be difficult. It depends on how much time more than anything you’re prepared to wait without perhaps a conclusive answer. The alternative is to cut your losses and invest in a new dishwasher

Did you ever get this fixed? I seem to be having the same problem (not heating during wash, but seems to be drying ok). Any suggestions?

With COVID there is limited availability of new machines. Plus, I here the new machines do not have a drying cycle that uses the element. I had reset mine and it worked well for a week or so. I called for service and since my circulation pump was changed 3 years ago , the technician believes it may be the wiring harness. He’s coming tomorrow. The machine is only three and a half years old. He also recommended dishwasher cleaner be used regularly. I had never heard of this but with fine mesh filters in mine and a turbidity sensor it makes sense. I’ll see what happens tomorrow. But I’m not very confident that only this will do the trick.

I have the same problem. Computer thinks heater isn’t heating, but really the circulation pump is not spinning. I can get it spinning by hitting it with a hammer, but then it leaks water out of its housing. If there is no circulation, there is no heat transfer from the heater I’m guessing, and then the dishwasher infers the heater doesn’t work but can’t detect that the circulation motor is seized. UPDATE: yep, the circulation pump was leaking, rusted, and seized. Replacing it fixed the “Heater not Heating” error code and fixed everything else. It’s an easy fix, just be careful not to rip the rubber grommet holding the intake side of the pump. The entire grommet simply slides out of the sleeve it’s in. Don’t use a screwdriver to pry it out. Just twist and pull it.