Chosen Solution
LG dehumidifier working great then suddenly died. Power source is ok but pressing power does nothing. no sound no display, simply no response from the unit. Could bad capacitor be the culprit? Update (07/26/2022) The bigger problem is that the capacitor in question has been discontinued and no longer available. Label printed on the capacitor: CBB65A-1 35uF +/-5% 50-60Hz 270VAC 3.0/3.6A 25/80/21 C.PI SH CQC02002001190 Protected 10\1000 AFC Plant Oil EN60252). I’m a DIY and have no experience on this stuff but I can follow wiring diagrams. I just wanted to see if it’s just the capacitor and I’m willing to buy a compatible capacitor that (one close to the specs shown) and see if I can resurrect the unit. Beyond this initial attempt, it will be too much for me to figure out and will probably just ditch the unit. Any assistance will be much appreciated. Thank you all. Update (07/26/2022) Haven’t done much on the capacitor other than disconnect from the wirings. It looks ok (no dents, no bulges, except for faint sign of what could be a leak near the foot of one of the prong terminal. Hi. Thank you so much for the follow-up troubleshooting guidance. I may have found the potential problem. The 13-pin cable connecting the main pcb to the display pcb appears broken (see pic). I tried to do a quick search and this cable may not be sold separately from the main board rather as a board-cable bundle. i will keep on looking. If you know of a possible cable source please let me know. Again thank you for all the assistance.
Hi @pawcharles Here’s the service manual that should help. It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications. Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice. Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor i.e. both windings are used to start the motor. Once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start. Hopefully this is of some help Update (07/26/2022) Hi @pawcharles I’ve drawn a rough outline on the schematic showing what to test. If it were assembled then you would connect the Ohmmeter across the two prong of the AC cord plug and you should see a resistance value which is the low volts transformer on the control board. On the schematic image it is the green path that then connects to the red path. Since it is disassembled first check the path from where the brown wire connects on connector CN-AC1 to where it exits the board wherever the black wire connects to. This path is shown in red. If you place the Ohmmeter between these two points (arrowed in red) you should see the resistance of the LV transformer primary winding. If you don’t then there’s a problem on the board or the transformer and you will have to chase the path on the board by visually following the tracks/connections. Maybe connect directly across the LV transformer itself first. It has two windings, a primary (which you are testing for) and a secondary which you may have to test later on). Both windings should show continuity and not open circuit. i don’t know what their resistance value would be but it shouldn’t be that high <500 Ohms I would think. If that path is OK then check the secondary winding of the LV transformer i.e. measure directly across the terminals of the transformer. This is just in case when you connect power it is getting to and through the primary OK but there is no output because the secondary is open circuit Next check the path from the AC input white wire (or maybe blue) to the capacitor term.C to the brown wire that connects to CN-AC1 on the board. Then check the other wire i.e. black (or maybe brown) from the AC input to where it connects to the control board. This is shown in green on the diagram.
(click on image to enlarge)
If the capacitor has a leak it’s done.
